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sábado, 9 de marzo de 2019

11 things you sure don't know about Georgia


Let's start with 11 things you sure do not know about Georgia, 
let's go? Raise the anchors!


საქართველო




1- How is Georgia in Georgian?
As you may have guessed from the title, it is called Sakartvelo, and in its alphabet is written as the red letters above.


2- How much money do you need in your pocket?
If a euro is 3.06 lari, you can image the cost of living in the Caucasian country.
Hosting on an Airbnb with an entire apartment in the "Old Tbilisi" for 60 euros a week or a local meal with a drink for 3 euros are some of the examples that show that living in the Georgian capital is, even though it is a capital, a destination very cheap for european travelers.

Of course, forget about those prices on Rustaveli Avenue, probably the most expensive in Tbilisi.


3-The bridge of peace
This bridge over the Kurá River, is a pedestrian bridge that connects the two Tbilisi, the oldest with the most recent.
From it you can see how the two parts divided by the river in the city, rise up on hills and descend until you reach the illuminated and iconic bridge, which during the day and at night offers wonderful views.








From this bridge you can also see emblematic sites such as the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity. Imposing and orthodox, this cathedral was completed in 2004 and is part of one of the buildings of the majority religion in the country with the most references in the city.




.

In addition to all this, the bridge is located near one of the best cableway in Tbilisi.


4-Kartlis Deda is the mother of all (the Georgians)

On the hill of Sololaki is located since 1958 the statue known as "the Georgian mother." Standing 20 meters tall, this imposing woman offers wine in her left hand, thus greeting those who come as friends of Georgia, and in her right hand, a sword, wanting to protect the country from those who come as enemies.



5- What is a Kinkali?
The country offers a wide culinary offer, similar to that of neighboring countries.
Among its dishes, two national stars stand out; these are the Kinkalis and the Kachapuri Acharuli.

The Kinkalis are a paste-shaped sachet of different fillings, these can be meat, cheese or mushrooms.
It is eaten by grabbing them from the end of the bag, which will always be undercooked, and it is eaten until it reaches the extreme where it is caught, which is not eaten because it is considered a lack of education. (They'll look you weird if you do).


Kachapuri Acharuli is a bread dough with oval shape and elongated ends that in the center contains cheese and butter. Shortly after finishing their baking in the traditional stone oven, they add a raw egg.
The Kinkali use it as a national symbol and you can find it in all the souvenir shops as a key ring or figure. The same stores also have souvenir figures of Stalin, as a curious fact.


6- Wines only in Spain? Will I eat only kinkalis?

The streets of Tbilisi, especially the old town, as well as souvenir shops, are full of restaurants and wineries.
Wineries: In Georgia two fundamental things meet to have good wines, some excellent lands and climate for vineyards and a thousand-year-old tradition with the elaboration of wines. They also produce another type of distillate and fermented.
Their countrymen boast of their great tradition and quality of the wines, which can be found in their usual packaging (bottle of wine with cork) or in their traditional vases (if the wine you like and the vase too, you know, two for one).

Restaurants: not everything in the Georgian cuisine are Kinkalis and Kachapuris, as I already mentioned, it has a great gastronomic offer. Yes, my friend, if you are from the group of cilantrophobics, get ready, they throw cilantro to everything.
In its culinary offer I only miss more rice dishes, fish, vegetables and in general vegan offer.


Maspindzelo: Exquisite food in the restaurant.
It was without doubt the best restaurant we went to for traditional food


Marani Wine, really good.


The only rice dish we found.

7- What do the Georgians speak?
They speak the Kartuli, which for us is said Georgian.
They use an own alphabet that consists of very striking characters, for us they would be like drawings, and use this one also for the numbers. But do not worry, restaurant menus are also in English.
The alphabet they use is called "Mjedruli" or going back in the past "writing of the knights" and appeared in the 10th century. While the first allusion to the language dates back to the 2nd century.


8- Joseph Stalin wasn't born in Russia
Yet the truth is that Iosef Stalin was born and grew up in the city of Gori, Georgia.
Avoiding the border area with southern Ossetia, we can see where Stalin spent his childhood and early adulthood, visit the house where he was born and a museum dedicated to him.

- As I said before, something very curious about Georgia is that it is full of souvenirs with the image of the iconic Dictator
- In the next point you will find the reason why you should avoid the border area with Ossetia.


9- Do you need bodyguards to go to Georgia?
Quiet, as in any trip; you do not need anything more than desire and preparation to go to Georgia.
Tbilisi, still a capital, is not crazy and you can breathe mostly a peaceful atmosphere all the time. The peripheries are the peripheries, that is not different anywhere.
However, if you want to get away from the capital and travel to different places like Batumi, to the monastery dug in the mountain or Sighnaghi, you should avoid on your way places like borders with North or South Ossetia and with Abkhazia, which are the secessionist zones , as well as the Pansiki gorge.

Street in the Old Tbilisi, near the thermal baths.

Also, if you do not feel safe, in the entire capital you will find a lot of businesses and cars that advertise tours for tourists at affordable prices.


10- Quantis (or the Georgian horns)
No, this does not go with ulterior motives. Like the ancient Vikings, Georgians also use horns to drink. Although this is only done in formal meetings (a traditional dinner called "Supra")
In the aforementioned ceremonies, this horn is used to make a toast. They are meetings where the Georgians connect through speeches of experienced oratory with the past, present and future. They always do it from love and always start talking about the parents, to whom they give the greatest importance.


If someday, for mysteries of the universe, you find yourself making a toast surrounded by Georgians with a Quantis, remember, do it with wine or brandy, since with beer it is considered an insult.


11- Why does Georgia look like a hodgepodge of Russia, Ottoman style, medieval and European?
Now I will show you a short summary of Georgian history.
I have created this table for you to understand the cultural influences of the country ..

Georgia is an ideal place at the level of trade and military strategy, being a bridge between Europe and the East, and Asia and Europe. For that reason, history has developed in this country in the following way:


tabla blog
1160
-
1212
The western part "Cólquida" and the internal part "Iberia" -> colonized by Greeks.
The Romans conquer everything and stay for 7 centuries
1800
Tsar Paul I of Russia incorporated Georgia into the Russian Empire.
The last Georgian king was Solomon II in 1815
S.VII
The weakened kingdoms derive to the Muslim conquest
1918
-
1921
First modern state
S.X
The regions were liberated and united to the kingdom of Georgia.
This kingdom was tolerant of Muslims and Jews
1921
Invasion and conversion to the URSS
S.XIII
The kingdom was subdued by the Mongols and later by the Timurid Empire.
April 9, 1991
Independence of the URSS
S.XVI
The Persian and Ottoman Empire were made with the east and west respectively.
May 26, 1991
The first president after independence was Zviad Gamsakhurdia
1783
The Russian Empire and the Georgian East signed a treaty of a mutual military support.
The agreement was broken by Russia when it let the Persians sack the city of Tbilisi.

He is the first president after separating from the URSS, so the day of his election is considered the day of independence


Through the centuries, Georgia has harbored in it different empires, colonies and invasions.
For that the current Skartvelo, remember in its streets, people and its folklore, the relics and pieces of each stage of its past.



Other photos and anecdotes:



Yes, in Georgia Edeka arrives, I have added it as a curiosity. For those of you who have visited Germany or lived there, you will know what supermarkets I mean.

I especially laughed a lot, because I've worked years for this company. It is somehow, as if they "accompany" me.


In Tbilisi, one of the streets is literally called Salami Street". And here I'm!
(This coincidence with the salamis, will come with us on more trips)


I spend many hours collecting information, synthesizing it and trying to explain it in the most entertaining way possible. If you liked this article, share it and follow me, you will also find me in my instagram Annavolldamm02.



We tied the boat for today. See you between the lines.


Annavolldamm


















viernes, 8 de marzo de 2019

Georgia: lost in Tbilisi



Georgia, that country that when you talk about it, first people think you talk about the US, but we really refer in this post to the great and little known by the Spaniards and many Europeans this Caucasian country.




 As neighbors it has Armenia, Azerbaijan, Russia, and Turkey. In addition Georgia is bounded by the Black Sea and on the boundary between Eastern Europe and Western Asia.

Its geographical location is so influential in its culture, in its buildings, clothes and traditions are reflected the Ottoman era, Russian Orthodox style, and medieval Europe.

All this makes it an unique place in the world, because it is easy to recognize each of these influences and, at the same time, how they have transformed it into a symbol of their identity.
Currency: lari

Georgia, like its neighboring countries of the Caucasus, is crossed by the Caucasian mountain range, that makes the landscape exceptional. It is a country full of forests, mountains and curious beaches. It should be noted that its citizens are responsible with pride and love to defend their landscapes.



Our experience

Section:
Travel

The trip and the hidden surprise
To get to Tbilisi we need to go first to Istanbul Atatürk airport, my life and travel partner flew from Barcelona and I from Basel. From there we took another plane to Tbilisi.
All this was with the Turkish airline "Pegasus Airlines". With which the flight experience was quality and quiet (with very cheap prices).
From the Georgian airport we go to the center with a bus line that connects with it every 35 minutes.

Once in the city we went to the hotel "Lost In Tbilisi". We had been awake for more than 20 hours and we were looking forward to getting there.

When we finally arrived at the hotel we were met with a big surprise, Lost in Tbilisi was really lost, it didn’t exist.
It was 6 in the morning and there were still no open cafes.
We were running out of internet and we did not have anywhere to go. So we waited until 7:30 to open a restaurant where (Rustaveli Avenue, Dinehall), I must say, I had the best coffee with ice cream of my life.



Dinehall, Rustaveli Avenue

Already tired (and desperate) we managed to contact Booking for a refund of the reservation at the ghost hotel. And at that time, we decided to rent through Airbnb a cute apartment but we could not access until 3pm, a whole show.
The apartment is located right in the old town, next to the botanical garden, that is, after a large hill.

What did we finally do? We left our suitcases with the appartment's owner and we went to the botanical garden. That is not especially small, which is beautiful and a recommended visit, in addition, is close to the baths / hot springs of Tbilisi, the favorites of Russians and newlyweds in the city.

It should be noted that the weather in May there is great. The little time it was raining, people went without an umbrella, because when the rain stopped, at 15 minutes you were absolutely dry.


Featured sites:


Old Tbilisi: beautiful and chaotic. Old town in reforms and dark streets. The feeling of security still, is very high.
Streets full of business thought for tourists: souvenirs, ex-change, restaurants ...

Rustaveli Avenue: full of historic buildings, shops, a big mall, hotels and exclusive restaurants.

Sololaki Hill: you can reach it with a cable car that crosses the city, that's where the mother of Georgia is, an aluminum statue 20 meters high. It is seen from all the city, and the hill has a complete panorama of the whole city.

The thermal baths "Sulfur Baths": Incredibly relaxing and unique beauty. They are recommended to treat skin problems, help with arthritis, insomnia ...
Or to go with your crush!

Parliament: The parliament is one of the majestic government buildings that can be seen on the famous Rustaveli avenue.

Liberty Square: the Peace Square, renamed several times during history, is located in the center of the city of Tbilisi and at the eastern end of Rustaveli Avenue.
Every 26th of May the anniversary of the Democratic Republic of Georgia is celebrated with a festive atmosphere going through all the streets of the capital.

(Restoration)
Maspindzelo: This was the best restaurant we found without a doubt in all of Tbilisi. It is close to the Sulfur Baths. There they make the best "Kachapuri Acharuli" (oval bread stuffed with cheese, butter and egg) and the best tasting quality price of the area. Definitely a stop-off site.

(Restoration)
MAQRO: From this place I can recommend the bowl of oatmeal with fresh fruits and the exquisite "Ice Coffe with Ice cream".
Also in front of this exclusive and luxurious place is the Tbilisi Opera House.

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity of Tbilisi: imposing orthodox cathedral of recommended visit for lovers of cultural and religious tourism.

Shardeni Street: iconic Tbilisi street full of entertainment, shisha and catering.


Outside the capital:

Ananuri: Natural beauty spot with an orthodox monastery. Landscape to the Caucasian mountain range.




Mtskheta: is a museum city near the capital is one of the oldest cities in Georgia and since the year 94 world heritage. Stands out for a beautiful Orthodox monastery (Jvari monastery) and the Svetitsjoveli cathedral. Within the city there are a multitude of stops and food stalls.




For us there is still a long list of places to visit in Georgia, we make a preview of the next trip:  
  • Batumi: located on the coast of the Black Sea
  • Gori: hometown of Joseph Stalin
  • Vardzia: medieval monastery dug in the mountain.
  • Sighnaghi: small town of great charm, the favorite of the couple to get married.



Section:
Trunk of the anecdotes

MAQRO: As I said earlier our first day in Tbilisi was a bit moved. At 6:00 in the morning we were lying without a hotel, internet or battery so we decided to walk along the "Rustaveli Avenue" and there my partner noticed a place with modern air that was still closed.
We decided to sit on a bench in front of the place that turned out to be a dinner hall. Coincidences of the universe the place ended up being one of the best places in Tbilisi for both breakfast and brunch.

(Culture)
Georgian Independence Day: we did not really know that May 26 was Independence Day, which was a surprise because that same day we returned to our corresponding destinations (Barcelona / Basel)
The return flight was at night so we enjoyed the festive atmosphere all day.

(Stores)
In the city that I currently live in Weil am Rhein there is a museum of architecture and interior design called Vitra, I was very surprised to find a store in Tbilisi of the same Vitra.

(Transportation and people)
In Tbilisi the normal thing is to get around with the bus, the metro or the taxi, we opt most of the time to take the taxi.
 One of the times we met with a nice taxi driver who although we did not really understand each other, his sympathy and his desire to be understood made us end up going with him on an excursion through Ananuri and Mtskheta. In the end, the gentleman ended up becoming a tour guide and a photographer. We made such good friends that after making a selfie we exchanged telephone numbers.

(By the way, in my opinion, the tbilisi metro is where I found the longest, fastest and steepest escalators in the world.)

(more about taxis)
But certainly one problem that we find in Georgia is that the majority of the population does not speak even a basic English, so when we took a taxi and left us in front of a shopping center we had the suspicion that the station was not there. So we told the taxi driver to take us to the place marked by Google Maps.
We got off the taxi a little surprised by the loneliness and misery that hit the area where we were.
It turns out that the almighty Google Maps was wrong and that there was no train station there (besides it was probably the worst periphery of Tbilisi) so we had no choice but to try to stop a taxi to return, it took us half an hour to stop a ramshackle car but we returned safely to Tbilisi.

I love Georgia, its landscapes, the influence of the different eras and empires in its streets, its people and its *kinkalis!
* Traditional Georgian food.

For me, to this day, it has been the trip that has marked me the most. I see Tbilisi as another European city, but with a much calmer people.
I felt very comfortable and "at home" and not just because I understood something there, absolutely everything in the streets is in Georgian, even the numbers are in this exceptional alphabet. (also in Russian and sometimes English)
But there are places that, without knowing an exact reason, reach the soul. This has been one, and at our annual meeting we will meet.


We tied the boat for today, Until the next post!

Lift up your anchor and sail

Hi everybody


I am Anna, an enthusiastic globetrotter who will share the wonders and anecdotes for her "modus vivendi", and will use this blog to explain:

  1. Show you my adventures and make you want to travel. (Wanderlust)
  2. Things you still do not know about many destinations.
  3. Explain difficult situations abroad and how to overcome them.
  4. Meet other travelers and share experiences.
  5. And of course my personal experience!

On the right side you will find my biography.


We see each other between the lines.


viernes, 1 de marzo de 2019

11 cosas que aún no sabes sobre Sakartvelo


საქართველო


Empecemos con las 11 cosas que seguro que no conoces de Georgia, ¿Vamos? ¡Levanten anclas!


1- ¿Cómo es Georgia en georgiano?

Como habréis podido adivinar por el título, se llama Sakartvelo, y en su alfabeto se escribe como las letras rojas de arriba.

2- Cuánto dinero necesitas en tu bolsillo

Si un euro son 3,06 laris, echa cuentas del precio de la vida en el país caucásico.
Hostearse en un Airbnb con apartamento entero en la "Old Tbilisi" por 60 euros a la semana o una comida local con bebida por 3 euros son algunos de los ejemplos que muestran que vivir en la capital georgiana es, aún siendo una capital, un destino muy barato para los viajeros de procedencia europea.

Eso sí, olvídate de esos precios en la Avenida Rustaveli, probablemente sea la más cara de Tbilisi.


3-El puente de la paz

Este puente encima del río Kurá, es un puente peatonal que conecta las dos Tbilisi, la más antigua con la más reciente.
Desde él se puede ver como las dos partes divididas por el río en la ciudad, se alzan encima de colinas y descienden hasta llegar al iluminado y icónico puente, que tanto durante el día como por la noche ofrece unas maravillosas vistas.



Desde este puente se puede además observar emblemáticos sitios como la Catedral de la Santísima Trinidad. Imponente y ortodoxa, esta catedral fue finalizada en el 2004 y forma parte de uno de los edificios de la religión mayoritaria del país más referentes de la ciudad.



Además de todo esto, el puente se encuentra cerca de uno de los mejores teleféricos de Tbilisi.
Si estás harto de tener riñas, ya sabes dónde ir.



4-Kartlis Deda es la madre de todos (los georgianos)

Situada en la colina de Sololaki se encuentra desde 1958 la estatua conocida como "la madre georgiana". De 20 metros de altura, esta imponente mujer ofrece en su mano izquierda vino, saludando así a los que vienen como amigos de Georgia, y en su mano derecha, una espada, queriendo así proteger al país de los que vienen como enemigos.



Se puede acceder desde el teleférico mencionado anteriormente, y de camino a la estatua se encuentran numerosas paradas de souvenirs y miradores a la ciudad.
O puedes ir andando.


5- ¿Qué és un Kinkali?

El país ofrece una amplia oferta culinaria, parecida ésta a la de los países vecinos.
Entre sus platos, destacan dos estrellas nacionales; éstos son los Kinkalis y el Kachapuri Acharuli.

Los Kinkalis son un pasta con forma de saquito de diferentes rellenos, éstos pueden ser carne, queso o setas. 
Se come cogiéndolos del extremo del saquito, el cual siempre estará poco cocido, y se va comiendo hasta llegar al extremo por dónde se coge, que no se come por considerarse una falta de educación. (Te mirarán raro si lo haces).


El Kachapuri Acharuli es una masa de pan de forma ovalada y de extremos alargados que en el centro alberga queso y mantequilla como si fuera un recipiente. Al poco de terminar su horneado en el tradicional horno de piedra, le añaden un huevo crudo.



El Kinkali lo usan como símbolo nacional y lo encuentras en todas las tiendas de souvenirs, al lado de  los souvenirs de Joseph Stalin, por ejemplo.



6- ¿Vinos sólo en España? ¿Comeré solo kinkalis?

Las calles de Tbilisi, especialmente el casco antiguo, además de tiendas de souvenirs, están repletas de restaurantes y bodegas.
Bodegas: En Georgia se reúnen dos cosas fundamentales para tener buenos vinos, unas tierras y clima óptimos para viñedos y una tradición milenaria con la elaboración de vinos. También producen otro tipo de destilados y fermentados.
Sus paisanos presumen de su gran tradición y calidad de los vinos, los que se pueden encontrar en su  envasado habitual (botella de vino con tapón de corcho) o en sus tradicionales jarrones (si el vino te gusta y el jarrón también, ya sabes, dos por uno).

Restaurantes: no todo en la cocina georgiana son Kinkalis y Kachapuris, como ya comenté, tiene una gran oferta gastronómica. Eso sí, amigo mío, si eres del grupo de los cilantrofóbicos, prepárate, le echan cilantro a todo.
En su oferta culinaria sólo echo de menos más platos arroces, pescado, verduras y en general oferta vegana.



  El único arroz que encontramos

7- ¿Qué hablan los georgianos?

Pues éstos hablan el Kartuli, lo que para nosotros se dice georgiano. 
Usan un alfabeto propio que consta de caracteres muy llamativos, para nosotros serian como dibujos, y usan éste también para los números. Pero no os preocupéis, las cartas de los restaurantes también están en inglés.
El alfabeto que usan se llama "Mjedruli" o remontándonos en el pasado "escritura de los caballeros" y apareció en el siglo X. Mientras que la primera alusión a la lengua se remonta en el siglo II.

8-  Joseph Stalin no nació en Rusia 

Y es que Iósef Stalin nació y creció en la ciudad de Gori, Georgia.
Evitando la zona fronteriza con el sur de Osetia, podemos ver dónde Stalin pasó su niñez y principios de su vida adulta, visitando la casa donde nació y en un museo dedicado a él.

- Como comenté antes, algo muy curioso de Georgia es que está repleta de souvenirs con la imagen del emblemático Dictador
- En el siguiente punto encontrareis el motivo por la que debéis evitar la zona fronteriza con Osetia.

9- ¿Se necesitan guardaespaldas para ir a Georgia?

Tranquilo, así como en cualquier viaje; no necesitas nada más que ganas y preparación para ir a Georgia.
Tbilisi, aún ser una capital, no es alocada y se respira en su mayoría un ambiente tranquilo todo el tiempo. Las periferias son las periferias, eso no es diferente en ningún sitio.
Sin embargo, si deseas alejarte de la capital y viajar por diferentes sitios como Batumi, al monasterio cavado en la montaña o Sighnaghi, deberás evitar en tu camino sitios como fronteras con Osetia del norte o del sur y con Abjasia, que son las zonas secesionistas, así como también el desfiladero de Pansiki.



Calle en la Old Tbilisi, cerca de los baños termales.

Además, si no te sientes seguro, en toda la capital encontrarás un montón de negocios y coches que anuncian tours para turistas a precios económicos.



10- Quantis (o los cuernos georgianos)

No, esto no va con segundas. Al igual que los antiguos vikingos, los georgianos también usan cuernos para beber. Aunque esto solo se hace en reuniones de carácter formal (una tradicional cena llamada "Supra")
En las mencionadas ceremonias, se usa éste cuerno para brindar. Son encuentros donde los georgianos conectan a través de discursos de experimentada oratoria con el pasado, presente y futuro. Lo hacen siempre desde el amor y empiezan siempre hablando de los padres, a quienes les dan la mayor importancia.



Si algún día, por misterios del universo, te encuentras brindando con georgianos con un Quantis, recuerda, hazlo con vino o brandy, ya que con cerveza está considerado un insulto.


11- ¿Por qué Georgia parece un batiburrillo de Rusia, estilo otomano, el medievo y lo europeo?

Ahora os mostraré un pequeño resumen de la historia georgiana.
He elaborado para vosotros esta tabla para que entendáis las influencias culturales del país..

Georgia se encuentra en un sitio ideal a nivel de comercio y estrategia militar, siendo un puente entre Europa y oriente, y Asia y Europa. Por esa razón, la historia se ha desenvuelto en éste país de esta interesante manera:



1160
-
1212

La parte occidental "Cólquida" y la parte interna "Ibera" -> colonizada por griegos.

Los romanos conquistan todo y se quedan por 7 siglos.


1800
El zar Pablo I de Rusia incorporó Georgia al Imperio Ruso.

El último rey georgiano fue Salomón II en el 1815

S. VII
Los reinos debilitados facilitan a la conquista musulmana
1918
-
1921

Primer estado moderno

S. X
Las regiones fueron liberadas y unidas al reino de Georgia.

Éste reino fue tolerante con musulmanes y judíos.


1921

Invasión y conversión a la URSS

S. XIII
El reino fue sometido por los mongoles y más tarde por el Imperio timúrida.

1991
Independencia de la URSS el 9 de abril del 1991
S. XVI
El Imperio persa y el otomano se hicieron con el este y oeste respectivamente.
26 mayo 1991
El primer presidente después de la independencia fue Zviad Gamsakhurdia.



1783
El Imperio ruso y el oriental georgiano firmaron un tratado de mutuo apoyo militar.

El acuerdo fue roto por Rusia cuando dejó que los persas saquearan la ciudad de Tbilisi.

Es el primer presidente después de separarse de la URSS, por eso el día de su elección se considera el día de la independencia.


A través de los siglos, Georgia ha albergado en ella diferentes Imperios, colonias e invasiones.
De eso a que la actual Skartvelo, recuerde en sus calles, gentes y su folclore, las reliquias y pedazos de cada etapa de su pasado.




Otras fotos y anécdotas:


 Sí, en Georgia llega Edeka, lo he añadido como una curiosidad. Para aquellos que hayáis visitado Alemania o vivido allí, sabréis a que supermercados me refiero.
Yo especialmente me reí bastante, pues he trabajado años para esta empresa. Es de alguna manera, como si me "acompañaran".
En Tbilisi, una de las calles se llama literalmente "Calle del Salami". Y aquí me tenéis.
(Esta coincidencia con los salamis, nos acompañarán en más viajes)


Dedico muchas horas a la recopilación de información, a sintetizarla y a intentarla explicar de la manera más entretenida posible. Si te ha gustado este artículo, compártelo y sígueme, me encontrarás también en mi instagram Annavolldamm02.

Amarramos el barco por hoy. Nos vemos entre lineas.

Annavolldamm02